Those of you who have read Murakami would understand the atmosphere I’m trying to describe that mixes the whisky aroma, wood, jazz and a hidden place in the heart of Beijing.
Well, that place existed and it was called Amilal. Amilal was part of me in 2014 and 2015. It was owned by an Inner Mongolian man who was fascinated about Japanese whisky and South American wines. Its location, 48 Hutong at Gulou-dajie.
Getting there was only possible by foot. Hutongs, the beautiful traditional chinese houses, on the northern side of the Forbidden City host some of the most unique bars and restaurants I’ve ever been to. Somewhere there, in the middle of Peking, Amilal was created.
It became a place to visit normally after Thursdays. The weeks were busy but by Thursday evening the mood for a drink was normal. I was already living in the area, a dream I always had (to rent a hutong) so after dinner I would just take a 15 minutes walk to Amilal.
Since hutongs are normally old houses some of those have more than hundred years, Amilal had an old tiny door you had to push, then a small patio you walk through to reach another door. You open it and you meet the owner by the bar, surrounded by two cats, smiling, normally nodding and not saying a word. There was no need for words. The jazz, the smile and the environment were just enough.
The evenings at Amilal became lessons about Jazz, wine, whisky, Belgrade and architecture. The chairs and tables were chinese antiques and the cats stopped by from time to time.
The owner was always smiling, reading, his white hair and attitude would tell he was in his early fourties. We never had a deep conversation, but there was a nice welcoming feeling everytime we stepped in.
A year later (2016), Beijing increased requirements for bars and restaurants in the hutongs, aiming to clean up this part of the city and make it more formal. Several places had to close among those, Amilal.
To those hidden corners of jazz and whisky.